RX6 F906-4 static

For those of you who wonder about that 9 guides affair, here’s a first hint: pics of the static test. As far as I’m concerned, the static is cool. Guides #2 and 3 from the stripper would ideally put a little less angle in the line, but it’s not bad at all so I’m pleased with the result.

Junior (second from the right) should be a tad higher if I wanted to be perfectly happy

You may want to meet this guy, he helps me with static tests:

Not Memphis, but slim anyway

Welded by my brother, the artist in the family. And since I’m being a smart ass about Memphis Slim, I give you Everyday I have the Blues, a perfect number anytime I’ll hit the water with this blue carbon babe.

RX6 F906-4, piano e sano

I got some time to work on the RX6 project. The babe is all wrapped up now:

Waiting for a piece of action...

I decided to experiment a little on the guide formula. I posted here that the law is to go with n+1 guides when n is the length of the blank (in feet). I wanted to spare every gram I could on this not-that-fast blank, so I went with 9 guides instead of 10:

  • 5 single foot #1
  • 1 #3
  • 1 #4
  • BLAG 10
  • BLAG 12 (stripper)

Now the only thing that remains to be done is to varnish the wraps. I’ll go with FlexCoat Lite this time. I’m still pondering whether to go testing the setup on the lawn before sealing everything in epoxy or not. I’ll probably give it a try.

Even more probable when considering that Mike Barrio joined a hand written letter to the GT140S line I bought from him. Given Marc ‘Limp’ Fauvet gives it a full support, I have great expectations for it. And at £24 with free postage, you don’t have to break the bank, which is good. And the bright orange will help you track your casting, which is great, and compliments really well the RX6 blue resin, a definite plus for the TsC&C bastard I am.

Beautiful RX6 Blue

RX6 F906-4, second round

So, I had a couple of hours last week end, perfect time to build a handle for the blue babe, who got a fair share of wiggling recently.  As TsC&C as ever, for the handle I grabbed a cork grip, an old piece of semi garbage that Greg gave me (I wanted to buy it but he couldn’t sell it to me ’cause he’s a decent chap). And I decided to pair it with a sleek Batson reel seat, black aluminium and carbon. See what I do here? Beauty and the beast, sharp contrasts, that’s TsC&C for you.

That cork thing was a mess. The front part was chipped, and the recess for the reel seat wasn’t large enough. I tried to enlarge it, filing slowly and carefully, but the cork was bad enough to crumble at some point, leaving a hole… At that point I was convinced that heavy surgery was required. I cut out everything looking unhealthy, epoxied a cork and a burl ring down the handle. Burl looks cool there, but is also tougher than cork, which is a good news when the recess just leaves a rather fine layer of it.

Once the epoxy had cured, I put everything into the drill, and sanded it down to a pleasing shape. Then epoxied everything on the blank. Here the result:

Nice Batson reel seat (ref. RFIL2-GWG-B)

The handle is short, I wanted it that way. Usually, I cast with my hand against the reel. There’s usually 5cm of useless cork. So I took Ockham’s razor and got rid of the excess. As usual, what I do with my hands has personality, which is a polite with to say that my craft sucks but that’s ok. I couldn’t find a cork ring lousy enough to really match the handle, and as I used a cutter to put down the uncomely parts, the cut wasn’t geometric enough to exactly fit the machined cork ring. Fuzzy fit shows better here:

Crippled, but still on the catwalk

The wiggle test project

I learned something valuable. Adding a handle helps a lot to dampen the back bounce in the blank. I’m not sure why it’s the case. Mass added at the lower end? Better grip? Of course the grip is better, but it doesn’t feel like the bounce is handled better, rather that there’s less bounce. I’m guessing a combination of factors comes into play.

Anyway, now, the rod feels crisp. Wrapping the guide will undoubtedly modify everything, so we’ll see. I’m going to try to have the guide part as light as possible, ultra short wraps and light varnish. Stay tuned.

Lawn reviews: G. Loomis NRX 1088-4

(Long preamble)

Steve Rajeff is a bloody hell of a flyslinger. You know that. He’s one of those übercasters that I look at a little like they’re family with Batman or something. He’s also chief designer at Loomis, and he’s responsible for that NRX line much talked about. These rods sell for an insane price, $750 up (which translates €800 up in France). A very silly amout of money if you ask me, considering all the tuition you could get for it, making you a far better caster than any rod ever will.

I just had to say it, and you’ll probably hear it on g0ne again.

... I actually had to steal one. That's the babe.

Anyway, I’ve got this mate, Greg, who’s a talkative yet superb fishing buddy, and Greg’s obsessed with fly tackle. He’s got unreasonable quantities of it. He’s got a joke of a car, but the trunk is full of badass carbon, and don’t get me started on his reels and his 3 cubic meters of tying stuff. So he’s my key to the world of silly priced rods, and since I find the stuff interesting I’ll give you my .02 about any rod on which I can lay a hand and have a serious go on the lawn.

For those of you who are not familiar with g0ne, let me briefly put some things straight. I a not a good caster (not yet antway). I may never be a great one. But I’m dead serious about casting. I’m dedicated. I decided I wanted to reach as far as I could in the realm of the line slingers, and one of the first things you learn in this endeavor is that there’s no substitute for the hours you put in on the lawn, doing nothing but trying to make the line an extension of your mind. Most of my training I did on a 4wt. I like light rods, I like that you have to make the line fly, and not only zing it and shoot because it weights a ton. I’ve usually hated the heavy lines I tried. Even a Triangle Taper feels heavy to me. It will prove of some relevance for the NRX.

So here I was the other day, sitting in front of my vice at Greg’s, sweating hard to properly finish the thorax of a chironomid buzzer (supposed to be stupidly simple), with that sonnovabitch peacock herl refusing to bow to my will. When I finally got the bastard nailed, I thought: “gosh, I could use some time on the lawn”. I know Greg’s with me in these situations (even if he’s a far better tier than I am.)

It was 5 below, but sunny and almost no wind, so the perfect manly conditions. We geared up and hit the lawn. The time to string the rods was all it took to freeze my hands blue. But as I said we’re dedicated. We wanted to warm up first, then go for some distance, then precision at 17m, trying to land the fly into Greg’s cap. To make things interesting, we had to switch between three rods, as dissimilar as you can get: a tiny Sage TXL 363 3wt, the 1088 NRX I’m talking about, and a bazooka in the form of a Sage Xi2 1090. Manshit rod, I tell you, the kind of stick you use to tame tarpons. Every time you switch, you have to rebuild your whole cast. So you have to pay extra attention to what you’re doing, and I find the exercise quite good.

Many are the sorrows of the wicked, But he who watches lots of MacPhail shall be blessed with good looking emergers. Not like this one. Notice Greg's handsome arm in the back.

But I hear you mumble, ‘come on, g0ne, shut up already and spit your review!’ Fair enough. Let’s proceed.

The (long awaited) review

First impression. The thing is impressively light. I wiggled a One, a couple of other 8wts, but this one is really really light. The swing weight is rather what you would expect from a 5-6wt. Really light. Obviously, the benefit is crispness. Very low back bounce, it’s easy to have the tip stop sharp.

Looks. The tube is gorgeous. Its lid is very well machined, and has an O-ring for waterproof closing. The rod socket is nothing to write home about (are they ever been?). The rod’s coloring is pleasing on the conservative side. I guess that the cyan wrapping of last year’s edition did not fare that well with the customers. The REC guides (single footed) are really cool. Hey, Sage, when are you going to let those frigging snakes go? With that and the carbon reel seat, it gives you a kind of ‘contemporary but not too much’ look that will probably please most. Alas, the craftsmanship was shitty, especially considering the price tag. My camera’s battery died before I could shoot the thing, I’ll post that later. Won’t hurt the properties of the rod, but come on, Loomis, WTF??

I  did two sessions of 2 hours in total with the rod (on the second I was freezing my ass and switching rods, see above). Here’s what I learned.

I’ll put it simply, this is one hell of a rod. Strip 10m of line. Start false casting. The loops come right immediately, good form, good speed, without any special effort. No tailing loop, no problem loading the rod. It’s just easy. I proceed to lengthen the line. Up to 15-17m, it’s still effortless. The rod gives you lots of information about what’s going on behind your back, in case you’re not familiar with Mike Heritage’s 6th Essential (use your bloody eyes! And especially, watch that backcast!) Result: no whip cracking on the leader.

Who's laughing now, peacock herl? At that point, the camera died.

Around the 20-22m mark, I reach my own limits. Imprecise timing, bad tracking and improper application of force take their toll and my backcast starts looking like shit and everything collapses. With much effort and concentration, I manage an occasional shoot beyond that and land the fly around 25, a personal best. But nowhere I felt like the rod was a limiting factor, it just allowed me to cast at the best of my limited abilities. Can you ever ask for more?

The rod is quite powerful too. It picks up 15m of line out of the grass without protesting, and sends it straight in a good loop backwards.

Precision was a joy. Greg and I taking turns, the fly consistently landed within 1m of the cap 17m away. Often much closer. Honesty requires me to tell that I won, with 2 hits to none. That an average caster may (twice!) land a fly in a cap at 17m tells me, again, that the rod lets you do what you want to do.

Did I mentioned it’s light? My first session, after one hour and a half of non stop casting, I was still asking for more. Didn’t want to stop. I eventually had to because it was dark and cold, but I see myself playing with that babe a whole spring afternoon. One cool implication of its lightness was that it was quite easy to go back from the TXL to the NRX. 5 weights up, mind you. But the feedback the rod gives you is so sharp you don’t have to put yourself into a trance to adjust the stroke. Going from the Xi2 to the TXL was another story, though ^_^. Better format the hard drive (ie time for a cigarette) then start from scratch. Going from the NRX to the Xi2 was like jumping out of a Ferrari into a Panzer. Nice, in a way. But disorienting.

I just can’t wait to see what a good fish does to it. Already planning a pike session with Greg, and something about sea basses.

Yeah right. Just like that

So, bluntly, the NRX in 8wt is the dogs bollocks.

The guys at Yellowstone said so as well, and it’s probably wiser to listen to them than to me. But the point is: you don’t have to be a champ caster to see what that stick can do for you. Would I buy one? No way. More than $150 on a rod seems to me overkill, at my skill level at least. Maybe some day I’ll realize I have to rob a bank if I’m ever to see that backing, but we’re not there. Plus I suspect the crafty rodbuilder never needs such an expensive rod, whatever the casting skill, but I’m talking trough my hat here, I don’t even know what the regular joes in the casting tournaments are using.

Wiggle Test

Everyone knows that not much can be learned by wiggling a rod in a shop. Or so they say. In order to build experimental knowledge about stuff I usually just read about, I decided to take the wiggle test seriously.

It all began with a unwanted RX6 F906-4 blank from Batson, that landed on my desk out of the sheer lack of imagination of blank designers when it comes to blanks’ names. You’ve just designed that great 9′ carbon stick, 4 pieces, and CCSed it at 6wt. You did a good job, and now it needs a name. Will it be ‘Rainbow Warrior’*? ‘Reservoir Delight’? ‘A Summer on the Mataura’? Anything having to do with beautiful places you’d want to fish that 6wt? Or the fishes you’d like to put a bend in it?

No. You call it F906-4, like the lazy bastard you are. And you don’t give a shit if half the 9′ 6wt 4 pieces blanks in the friggin’ world bear that name. So while you set your brain back in power-saving mode after such a creative fit, my poor carbon dealer is making mistakes about which one of the bloody F906-4s I’m talking about.

But I digress.

Jone Pedersen wiggle testing her pet deer, according to google image.

Still waiting for some part before I build this blue babe (just for the heck of it), I found its straightest axis, spined it, and I leave it mounted all the time there, next to my desk. Just the bare blank. And I get to wiggle it quite a lot… when working, when watching a movie (gets the missus quite mad), when talking to my kids. I concentrate on the feelings, trying to memorize them in order to compare to what will happen next when I build a rod out of the blank. I’ll keep you posted as I proceed.

What I learned:

  1. You get what you paid for. It’s cheap, and certainly not the most amazing blank I’ve ever wiggled. Still, it’s a good blank: relatively straight, not heavy, responsive and in a beautiful blue.
  2. Back bounce. I expect the rod to send some waves in the bottom leg of the cast. When I wiggle the blank, I sense very clearly some energy going back and forth along it, making it hard to get a clean stop. I’m not sure how it’ll translate in the complete rod, even less in a rod+line system. This is one of the main things I’m trying to learn in the process.
  3. On the effect of the grip. When confronted with back bounce, a possible strategy is to switch to the ‘forefinger on top’ grip. It provides very good dampening, (mechanically) much better than the trick consisting in releasing the grip just after the stop (hard to do it right!). The problem is that I don’t think the top forefinger grip is very suitable for a 6wt (especially when going for distance).

Point grip or 'index on top' (source Cummings on the AAPGAI site)

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*This one is really good, if I may say so myself. Remember, you saw it first on g0ne.