What happens

when you rig a 6wt with a WF4? I’m not sure, but I’ll check out today. Last time I tried Julien’s Barrio Mallard wf5 on the 6, and it was brilliant. Actually, it’s more or less the way you get a TCR: take a (good) fast 6wt (edit: 7wt), label it 5, et voilà.

Now, google images is a funny toy. I was looking for an illustration for “underlining” and somehow found that Marc is not the only good thing in Sweden. There’s also Camilla Sparv.

It’s not only the name.

Same Camilla that apparently is another piece of decoration in her own house, at least the way this Lasse guy shot her.

Check the tarpon. Do you think she caught it on a underlined 9wt?


A very interesting discussion is going on here, it’s about friction and rod design.

Friction (good kind)

Aitor Coteron (übercaster from the sunny side of the Pyrénées) shot an amazing slow motion of what really happens when the line shoots through the guides. He was kind enough to point me to it. The video, I gather, was meant as a tool for rodbuilding decisions. It’s called Guide size effect on line shooting, and I can’t embed it here, so go see it, but remember to come back for discussion!

What I take from the vid is that bigger strippers will give you more weight,  and nothing more. Line slap may be worse with smaller guides, but even then I doubt it would slow the line much.

Clearly, if distance is to be gained by fiddling with the tackle, what has to be bettered is what happens at the stripper. I think that shooting with a rod at an angle like 45, and not horizontal, should help a lot. Then, if I were a distance caster in tournament, I think I would experiment and try to find a way to coil the line properly in order to reduce random waves and collision with the stripper. Perhaps if the line was on the ground behind the caster, in line with the tunnel of guides, it would help.

 Casting porn, featuring Alex Titov

I wasn’t aware of such aspects of the casting sport, but once again Marc is there when I lack of knowledge. He says:

soft and short grass doesn’t seem to make a big difference but tarps, blankets and such are obviously better. some comps allow them, some don’t. some comps have a mandatory stripping basket which imo is always better because it’s higher and closer to the stripping guide: less distance to travel and if worn on the front, is less at an angle (more in line with the rods than a pile on the ground).
i almost always use one to fish far and it makes for easier (less effort) casting.


coils: some do and some don’t. Rajeff is pretty picky how his line is placed.

i make two piles, one in front with the line to be shot and one to my side with the carried line. nothing’s really ideal but this works for me.

Marc seems to suggest that friction is useful for line control.

 lets keep in mind that a little, or better yet, controlled friction can give better results in line control and loop formation. as a somewhat extreme example of this let’s look at the benefits of the triple haul or line check.

That’s a fascinating thought, at least because 1. I have no idea what a triple haul would be, 2. I can’t see the causal connection between friction and control, 3. hence there’s probably a new world of ideas opening before me.

And now I need a stripping basket.

What I did on Sunday


Quite aptly captured by the Queen of hearts.

Caught two rainbows on a 14 gray and black emerger with a Styrofoam bead for buoyancy and visibility. Water was warm, guts of wind up to 50 kmh, occasional pours. As usual, I have no idea what’s happening in the water. Didn’t see anything hatching. Here I’m not catching anything along the bank.

And here’s the nice droppings the gun retards leave behind.


Many labels in rodbuilding only make sense in the marketing department, the prime example being ‘spinning’ and ‘casting’ blanks. I have a long history of using fly blanks for long and light spinning. The other way around, obviously, has some appeal to me. After all, I like a fast rod, and I just wonder what a fast one piece blank for light lure fishing would do if rigged to cast a 5wt.

I’ll probably test that at some point, so stay tuned.

Meanwhile, some guy at NFC had just the same idea, only using a salmon blank for flinging a 10wt.

Worth noting: 7 guides, no more. I’m beginning to seriously doubt the x+1 theory (where x is the blank’s length in feet). Do I really need that much weight on the rod’s tip?